Sorry, I might be late to the party here and may have gotten slightly distracted by the sartorial extravagance of the Ambani wedding events! But I wanted to keep my tradition of writing my thoughts and fun details of my favorites from the recent couture collections. Last couture week, I sensed an energy of rejuvenation, and the designers amplified it this time. They questioned the past, the present, the future, and the existence of it all. The beauty of couture lies in its storytelling, and we had some amazing tales presented to us this season!
Daniel Roseberry's Schiaparelli show kickstarted the couture week. Speaking to Vogue France, Daniel explained how he wanted to do a complete one-eighty from the last couture collection that heavily featured tech (who can forget the iconic baby robot?). He moved away from the virality of the digital space and paid homage to the OG couturiers instead. It was all about going back to the books with no digital research. The medium of expression was his beautiful sketches through which he brought his dream to reality.
The dream was weaved by asking a simple question. What if you visited the country house of Elsa Schiaparelli and stumbled upon this forgotten last collection, perfectly preserved in boxes and wrapped in silk and tissue paper? It would transport you back in time to Elsa's creative glory, but Daniel further yearned to bring this collection alive in the modern day, and that's the rendition we saw on the catwalk. The basement set up with just the humongous chandeliers was perfect because it felt like the audience was with him as he explored Elsa's country house basement and discovered this collection. Within the gorgeous ensembles was a tribute to Charles James's art of creating magnificent shapes when the iconic Butterfly gown was reimagined with an enamel puzzle embroidery.
How will your aura look in this material realm? Rahul Mishra tried to answer that as he spun a spiritual story on the runway. We all are blessed with an aura whose vibrations, when synched with the Universe's flow, create a beautiful harmony. Rahul Mishra essentially captured that on an embroidery frame and proudly showcased it in an ethereal (almost) grayscale collection.
The Hindu god Brahma’s intrinsic energy of being the oracle of all time (the past, present, and future) was also manifested by Rahul Mishra most magnificently on the runway. He searched for the soul and gave the audience a visually delightful and striking collection.
Speaking of the eternity of time, Robert Wun introduced his 10th-anniversary collection with a small poem on Instagram:
“From the first snow to the last fallen leaf. From our first heartbeat to our last breath. It is all perfect because it will all end, that is the beauty of time.”
That was the rhythm in which Robert Wun's collection flowed. He managed to explore everything the Universe has to offer to us. From the human form to the seasons to the galaxy, they all were examined through a couture lens that's unique to him. He soul-searched within the stars and brought the Milky Way to the runway with hand embroidered 97000 Swarovski crystals on a look that was peak couture craftsmanship.
While Robert Wun was dreaming within stars, Cheney Chan dreamed in a fantasized floral field of fabric with his private collection, Dream in Bloom. The way the rich fabrics were manipulated to showcase the full bloom was mesmerizing. The shapes were fresh to the eyes and pleasing to any fashion lover. The enchanting fabric garden had its own fairy too!
Whether you want to lose yourself in a time unknown or go for soul-searching of your own, this couture week gave you wings of imagination to do so. Do you have any favorites? Let's discuss it in the comments!
Love,
Rashmi B.
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